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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.