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An Expert Colorist

Styling Professional operating from California who excels at silver hair. His clients include celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. Many are unaware how much damage a regular bath towel can do, especially to grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while detangling and helps keep the health of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A top-tier thermal appliance – featuring innovative technology, with adjustable temperature options. Silver and light-coloured hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

DIY bleaching. Internet videos often simplify it, but the actual fact is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people cause irreversible harm, break it off or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. I also don’t recommend keratin or permanent straightening treatments on bleached or silver hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks drab and lacking shine. Some depend excessively on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. The other major issue is heat styling without protection. When applying flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a heat protectant, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest follicle treatments containing stimulants to enhance nutrient delivery and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, stress and nutritional deficiencies.

In cases requiring advanced options, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have thinning spots. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had noticeable thinning – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having a bad infection previously. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say medicated treatments. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Also, high-dose biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the main goal of cleansing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If oils are left on your scalp, they decompose and cause irritation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it shouldn't harm your hair.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus